This was our first visit to Scandinavia. Well, that's not completely true as I spent a long weekend in Bjärka-Säby, Sweden, in 2002 at my friend's wedding. We went with Wilderness Travel on their Hiking Ålesund & the Sunnmore Alps trip.
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Once we arrived in the Copenhagen airport, it was a slow process to clear passport control and wait for an Uber and then drive through town to our hotel, the Hotel Kong Arthur where we deposited our bags in an overflowing, self-service, baggage room in the basement. There we met a British family who suggested that we skip the crowded, over-priced canal tour at the top of the Nyhavn and go with a smaller concern at the end of the waterfront. We were glad we followed their advice.
During our Copenhagen canal tour, we were introduced to a long list of city sights, including:
I then grabbed a life-sustaining coffee at the very charming Bedwood Hostel. I passed by sleeping pods on my way to the toilet, which seem a bit more private than bunks.
So fortified, we headed off to the Amalienborg Palace, the winter residence of the Danish Royal Family. This is across the street from the Frederik's Church, locally known as the Marmorkirken or Marble Church, with its massive copper dome.
We made our second pass by the Kongens Nytorv with the Royal Danish Theatre (Det Kongelige Teater). We swung by Nyhavn again to get a closer look at the Christiansborg Palace.
We then strolled along one of Copenhagen's busy pedestrian streets (Købmagergade) to the Round Tower (Rundetaarn), which is an observatory attached to a church (or vice-versa). We finished off the tour relaxing on the grass in the park adjoining the Rosenborg Castle (Rosenborg Slot), which was considered a summerhouse in the Renaissance, before catching a yummy dinner at the small and busy Slurp Ramen Joint.
First impressions? The buildings are all a uniform five stories high, the streets are clean, and bicycles are everywhere. The bicycles have a dedicated, raised lane, and you better stay off of them as a pedestrian. Danish pedestrians wait for the green light to cross the street, and only at corners.
The Masting Crane |
The Masting Crane and the HDMS Sælen, a decommissioned Royal Danish Navy submarine, along with a couple of other decommissioned Navy ships |
The HDMY Dannebrog, the official royal yacht of the Danish monarch |
The Copenhagen Opera House (Operaen på Holmen) |
The Church of Our Saviour (Vor Frelsers Kirke) |
Our canal tour guide Robin |
The Church of Our Saviour (Vor Frelsers Kirke) |
The Circle Bridge (Cirkelbroen) and the Black Diamond library (Den Sorte Diamant), behind it. |
The bridges over the canal are all very low. |
The Marmorbroen was completed in 1745 as the grand, rococo-style entrance to the original Christiansborg Palace. |
The Holmen Church (Holmens Kirke) is at left just beyond the bridge and the Church of Our Saviour (Vor Frelsers Kirke) in the distance |
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The Holmen Church (Holmens Kirke) |
The C.F. Tietgens Hus, a historic office building |
The charming Bedwood Hostel, complete with sleeping pods instead of bunks, where I grabbed a life-sustaining coffee. |
Lori poses in front of the picturesque Nyhavn. |
The Amalienborg Palace, the winter residence of the Danish Royal Family |
The Amalienborg Palace, the winter residence of the Danish Royal Family |
The Frederik's Church, locally known as the Marmorkirken or Marble Church, with its massive copper dome |
The Modern American Steak House (MASH) had a cute sign, but we didn't eat there. |
The Royal Danish Theatre (Det Kongelige Teater) |
Christiansborg Palace (Christiansborg Slot), the seat of all three branches of government |
Strolling along the Købmagergade, one of Copenhagen's busy pedestrian streets |
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The Round Tower (Rundetaarn), an observatory attached to a church (or vice-versa) |
We finished off the tour relaxing on the grass in the park adjoining the Rosenborg Castle. |
The Rosenborg Castle (Rosenborg Slot), which was considered a summerhouse in the Renaissance |
The gardens of the Rosenborg Castle |
Bicyclists rule the streets in Copenhagen. |
Lori and other Copenhagen locals cross the street at a pedestrian crossing as you can be fined for jaywalking. |
The line to get into the Slurp Ramen Joint |
Lori and I catch a yummy dinner at the small and busy Slurp Ramen Joint. |
Lori and I catch a yummy dinner at the small and busy Slurp Ramen Joint. |
The street where our hotel was located was pretty typical for Copenhagen with five-story buildings. |
Our comfortable and convenient room in the Hotel Kong Arthur |
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I spied a hotel note that seemed to have fallen on the floor, but it read, "Sleep tight. All clean and cozy - and yes, we double-checked for monsters." So cute! |
At the beginning of the day's walking tour of Copenhagen, we saw some murals on apartment buildings. The murals in Reykjavik are still the best, but I like the competition. We found ourselves in many cute, little, residential streets. I couldn't help but take photos of the colorful facades.
Our first stop was the the Sankt Peders Bageri, Copenhagen's oldest bakery, for a classic cinnamon roll. The roll was warm and chewy and delicious.
Next on the agenda was the Copenhagen City Hall (Københavns Rådhus). I attempted to steer clear of a guard, but he beckoned us to enter and enjoy the garden. We did. As we thanked him on the way out, he also said we should go into the front entrance and enjoy the interior. We did that too. It looked like a wedding was to start soon.
Across the street was Tivoli Gardens, the second-oldest operating amusement park in the world and the inspiration for Walt Disney's Disneyland.
We then walked along the Strøget, one of the longest pedestrian shopping streets in Europe. It sports a Lego shop, but we resisted the urge to browse. At the end of the street, we found ourselves, yet again, on the Kongens Nytorv.
We had a couple of nice sandwiches at the little Madbaren Marmorkirken across the street from the Marmorkirken before heading up to the The Little Mermaid statue (Den lille Havfrue) followed by the The Genetically Modified Little Mermaid, a more abstract version, surrounded by six other figures from the gospels.
After ducking under a bridge to escape a torrential downpour and thunder for a few minutes, we walked around the Kastellet.
We finished off the day with smørrebrød at the Hallernes Smørrebrød in the Torvehallerne, a combination food hall and farmer's market.
Other than a couple of short thundershowers today, we had good weather during our short stay in Copenhagen. It was mostly cloudy with some sun, and it was much warmer than the 17 degrees Celsius forecast would indicate. I had to roll up my sleeves.
Nothing beats Reykjavik for mural quantity and quality, but Copenhagen had a number of their own. |
Cute and semi-cobblestony streets |
Our first stop was the the Sankt Peders Bageri, Copenhagen's oldest bakery, for a classic cinnamon roll, which was warm and chewy and delicious. |
I attempted to steer clear of a guard at the Copenhagen City Hall, but he beckoned us to enter and enjoy the garden. |
A statue within the garden at the Copenhagen City Hall |
Ornate staircase within the garden at the Copenhagen City Hall |
Tivoli Gardens, the second-oldest operating amusement park in the world |
Lori and a statue of Hans Christian Andersen, which was made by Henry Luckow-Nielsen in 1965 |
The same guard invited us to go inside the City Hall, and so we did. |
Copenhagen City Hall (Københavns Rådhus) |
Copenhagen City Hall (Københavns Rådhus) |
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A very cool copper roof adorns a church along the Strøget |
We found ourselves, yet again, on the Kongens Nytorv. |
We found ourselves, yet again, on the Kongens Nytorv. |
The daily march of the Danish Royal Guard from Rosenborg Castle to Amalienborg Palace completely stops city traffic, but no one seems to mind. |
We had a couple of nice sandwiches at the little Madbaren Marmorkirken across the street from the Marmorkirken. |
We had a couple of nice sandwiches at the little Madbaren Marmorkirken across the street from the Marmorkirken. |
The very popular Little Mermaid (Den lille Havfrue) statue was made by Edvard Eriksen and unveiled in 1913. |
The very popular Little Mermaid (Den lille Havfrue) statue was made by Edvard Eriksen and unveiled in 1913. |
Further along the shore, a more abstract version called The Genetically Modified Little Mermaid, made by Bjørn Nørgaard in 2000, can be found. |
The Genetically Modified Little Mermaid is surrounded by six other figures from the gospels. This group was also made by Bjørn Nørgaard in 2000 and is called The Genetically Modified Paradise |
The Genetically Modified Little Mermaid is surrounded by six other figures from the gospels. This group was also made by Bjørn Nørgaard in 2000 and is called The Genetically Modified Paradise |
The Genetically Modified Little Mermaid is surrounded by six other figures from the gospels. This group was also made by Bjørn Nørgaard in 2000 and is called The Genetically Modified Paradise |
We took cover under a bridge as we were treated to our first deluge and some thunder. |
The Kastellet, the town's military stronghold and barracks |
The Kastellet, the town's military stronghold and barracks |
The Kastellet, the town's military stronghold and barracks |
The Kastellet, the town's military stronghold and barracks |
The Kastellet, the town's military stronghold and barracks |
The Sankt Albans Kirke, also known as The English Church, is just outside the Kastellet. |
A lovely building along a river |
It was an easy transportation day. We didn't have any traffic on the taxi ride to the airport. It was a short one hour flight to Ålesund, Norway, and a taxi at the airport was immediately available to take us to the Hotel Brosundet.
Our walking tour started with a climb to Storhaugen for the view. We then dropped down to see the Ålesund Church (Ålesund kyrkje), but it was covered with scaffolding. We then passed by the Jugendstilsenteret (Art Nouveau Centre) on our way to the town center which has a consistent architecture as the town was completely destroyed by fire in 1904 and rebuilt between 1904 and 1907.
Although it was cold out, Lori then had to get the famous brown cheese ice cream at Storfjord Iskrem. Thus fortified, we entered the Byparken to see the statue of the 10th-century Viking Rollo who was likely from a nearby island and went on to found Normandy and have a great, great, great, great grandson by the name of William the Conqueror who took over Britain in 1066.
We finished off the day with a burger, fish & chips, and a beer at Molo Brew.
The street leading up to the Hotel Brosundet |
After a short one hour flight from Copenhagen and a half hour taxi ride from the airport, we found ourselves at the Hotel Brosundet in Ålesund, Norway. |
Our room in the Hotel Brosundet |
Our walking tour started with a climb to Storhaugen for the view of Ålesund. |
Our walking tour started with a climb to Storhaugen for the view of Ålesund and Sukkertoppen, which we would climb in a couple of days. |
The Jugendstilsenteret (Art Nouveau Centre) |
The canal that runs through Ålesund |
The Hotel Brosundet (orange building) is right on the waterfront. |
Another cute and cobblestony street |
And another cute street |
Storfjord Iskrem |
Lori enjoys the brown cheese ice cream. |
An ornate building |
The statue of the 10th-century Viking Rollo who was likely from a nearby island went on to found Normandy and have a great, great, great, great grandson by the name of William the Conqueror who took over Britain in 1066. |
We took advantage of our last relaxing morning before walking into town to grab a quick lunch at Valaker Bakeri & Konditori. Shortly after lunch, we met the group and climbed the Aksla Steps to Fjellstua, where we had cake. On the way back, we saw one building (Waldehuset) that escaped the conflagration in 1904 that leveled the town. The town was largely all rebuilt in the next two years with the help of Kaiser Wilhelm II in the Jugendstile architecture. We closed the day with a delicious four-course meal in a private room in the hotel.
The view from our room of the Aksla Steps, which we will climb today. |
Lori and Ålesund from the Aksla Steps |
Lori and I and Ålesund from the Aksla Steps |
Lori and I and Ålesund from the restaurant Fjellstua at the top of the Aksla Steps |
Whimsical bench - it wouldn't be our last |
We couldn't imagine how this old car could make it up that steep driveway. |
This building, called Waldehuset, escaped the conflagration in 1904 that leveled the town (see photo), which was largely all rebuilt in the next two years with the help of Kaiser Wilhelm II in the Jugendstile architecture. |
This building, called Waldehuset, escaped the conflagration in 1904 that leveled the town (see photo), which was largely all rebuilt in the next two years with the help of Kaiser Wilhelm II in the Jugendstile architecture. |
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We hiked to the top of Sukkertoppen, a relatively little mountain outside of town, for a great overview of the islands.
We then boarded a boat for a ride to our next destination. The islands around Ålesund are quite populated, but once we entered the Hjørundfjord, the low islands and homes gave way to tall, glacier-covered mountains rising precipitously up from the water.
The boat was driven by Øystein, one of several siblings who run the Christian Gaard Farm in the roadless town of Trandal where we had a delicious venison burger. Linda, one of the owners, then gave us a history of the place, dating back to the 16th century.
After another boat ride, we arrived at the village of Øye and checked into the historic and very charming Union Øye Hotel built in 1891 that has hosted notable people such as Kaiser Wilhelm.
A representative map of the kind we saw often at the beginning of our hikes. |
A view of Ålesund during the climb to the top of Sukkertoppen |
A panoramic view of Ålesund and the surrounding islands, peninsulas, and fjords from the top of Sukkertoppen |
Lori on top of Sukkertoppen with Ålesund down below |
Mats offers treats at the top of Sukkertoppen. |
Clearly my neighbor's son has done this hike as a painted rock was left here. |
Pacific bleeding heart |
Next up is a boat ride down the Hjørundfjord. |
Goodbye Ålesund, and the first of many cruise ships we will encounter on our trip |
A charming boathouse along the fjord |
More charming boathouses! |
Civilization begins to peter out as we drive away from Ålesund. |
Still more charming boathouses! |
The snowy Sunnmore Alps beckon |
Mats engages the driver Øystein while most of us hang out on the bow. |
Most houses on the fjords rely solely on boats for transporting building materials. |
This hillside shows evidence of rock slides and avalanches, which shows the importance of building location. |
The main entrance to Christian Gaard |
The bar at the Christian Gaard |
This place hosts a blues festival a few times a year. |
Lots of picnic benches and beautiful scenery at Christian Gaard |
Stefano serves drinks to Jobie, Dan, Larry, Toby, Lori, Mats, Cindy, Donna, Ron, and I under old wooden umbrellas that were once used to protect drying fish from the (frequent) rains. |
A delicious venison burger and "the swing" down below |
Larry listens intently while Øystein's oldest sister Linda tells us the story of this place starting with the 16th century when it catered to hikers and climbers from Scotland and England and later to fishermen. |
Lori and Jobie enjoy Linda's stories. |
A pretty hideous witch flies overhead. |
The little bar in the Christian Gaard restaurant |
Ron, Donna, and Cindy admire the 16th century architecture. |
Larry exudes pure joy on the swing. |
Lori shoots for the sky. |
Goats hang out. |
The first of many, many waterfalls we would see this week. |
The next day, we would be walking along the razor-thin left-most ridge. |
Øystein holds the boat at the Øye dock while Jobie disembarks. |
The sauna at the end of the dock with a natural cold plunge |
The picturesque Union Øye Hotel and setting |
Vintage roadsters outside the Union Øye Hotel, where Lori waves from our room. |
The door to our room |
Our lovely room in the Union Øye Hotel |
This storage building, like many others we saw in Norway, seems precariously perched on stones supposedly to keep rats from entering. |
The neatly manicured garden behind the Union Øye Hotel |
The library in the Union Øye Hotel contains books as old as the hotel. |
A suit of armor adorns the entrance. |
The den for the gents... |
...and the sitting room for the ladies |
The "informal" dining room... |
...and the "formal" dining room |
The bar area and a couple of enthusiastic employees |
Lori lounges in our room. |
The view out our window |
So we took three hours to go 1.2 miles this morning. Yeah, it was quite the climb.
Our good weather turned to normal Norway weather today and we had intermittent light rain on the climb and a steady rain from lunch on. But at lunchtime, we were protected from the elements in a hut at the top of the mountain.
Once we reached the van, we all had a great sense of accomplishment. Once we reached the hotel, we cleaned the mud off of our boots, took a shower, and immediately fell asleep. We were awakened by a helicopter landing in the field across the street. The hotel staff welcomed the new guests.
Our tough hike today was rewarded by a beautifully plated and delicious 5-course dinner. Lars, the sommelier, kept us laughing all night.
Our first serious challenge for Jobie, Dan, Toby, Larry, Ron, and Lori while Mats brings up the rear. |
Mats seems to enjoy this seriously steep trail. |
Lori pauses in front of a spectacular backdrop. |
After three hours and only 1.2 miles later, we approach our lunch spot. |
Donna, Mats, Larry, Toby, Ron, Stefano, Jobie, and Dan take shelter from the rain in this hut called Egilbu and enjoy the massive lunches that the hotel prepared. |
Our lunch break at the hut is nearly over. |
Lori and Jobie start the descent on the other side of the mountain. |
Me and Lor above the Norangsfjord |
Larry views this very boulder field with very large boulders. |
Blue mountain-heath |
Lori's muddy boots among ferns and Swedish cornel |
Jobie loves this hike. |
An engine from a crashed German Messerschmitt from World War II |
Signs, including the ubiquitous Stikk UT! (stikkut.no), and maps and two Norwegian women who still had a couple of kilometers to go to their campsite. |
Black slug |
The house goats take refuge from the rain. |
Dan and Jobie are ready for our five-course dining experience. |
And Lars, our very entertaining sommelier, is ready to pour. |
And Mats is ready to drink that wine. |
The presentation of the first course is exquisite. |
All of the courses were beautiful and delicious, but I neglected to continue shooting after this course. |
Our first stop was at Lygnstøylvatnet, which was formed in 1908 when a rock slide blocked the Norangselva River and flooded a small farm.
Our next stop was the Urasetra next to Uravatnet. A sætra is a summer farm, and some of them can be mistaken as troll houses. Ura in Norwegian means scree, and these sætra seems survive under a scree slope that is subject to landslides and avalanches by being built into the mountain.
Our hike today was much gentler in comparison to yesterday's hike. We strolled past several lakes including Nedstevatnet, Stigholvatnet, and Ångelsvatnet, where several hikers cooled off in its waters. The hike ended in the village of Flo on the Oppstrynsvatnet. We then stopped for a snack and coffee at a cafe in Stryn shortly before arriving at the Hotel Alexandra in Loen on the Innvikfjord, a branch of the Nordfjord.
Remnants of a small farm can still be seen underwater, as it was flooded in 1908 after a rock slide blocked the Norangselva River (visible in the background). |
Sætra (summer farm), often mistaken for mythical troll houses |
The Urasætra are so named because of the scree slopes above it. |
Lori and Bill in front of the Uravatnet |
Red campion |
The first of several stream crossings on today's hike |
Tussock cottongrass |
Hoof fungus |
Club-horned sawflies |
Dicots |
We walk along the Nedstevatnet on a trail that is significantly less steep than yesterday's. |
Water avens |
Water horsetail |
Ostrich fern |
Stream crossing number two! |
Lori, Stefano, and Cindy walk along the Stigholvatnet. |
A waterfall flows into Stigholvatnet. |
Looking back on the Stigholvatnet. |
Forget-me-not |
Roseroot |
Red campion |
Lots of water and grass at this summer farm at the head of Stigholvatnet |
This trail through the woods is wide and comfortable. |
A waterfall next to the trail |
Donna and Lori enjoy their lunch and the views. |
Toy soldiers |
Stefano and Mats enjoy their lunch with the cows. |
The last stream crossing of the day |
Farms around the Ångelsvatnet |
The nicely raked beach at the Ångelsvatnet where a few folks went in for a (very) quick swim. |
Here comes the tractor that was parked next to the cows. |
Lori and Mats stand well clear of the tractor above Ångelsvatnet--and wait!--isn't that a hut on the island? |
Lori is having a very good day. |
These cows are hiding in the spruce. |
Our first views of Oppstrynsvatnet as we descend. |
After descending a little further, the Oppstrynsvatnet opens up a long ways to the right. |
We stop for some snacks at the Stryn Kaffebar & Vertshus. |
Our room at the Hotel Alexandra in Loen |
Lori jumps into water slide in the hotel. |
Lori luges down this incredibly fast slide. |
A small pool at the bottom effectively provides all the braking action. |
Lori wipes off the water that was driven into her eyes and up her nose... |
...and declares, That was fun! |
Lori, Donna, and Cindy take a relaxing soak in a tepid pool. |
We had the morning off. After lunch, we took the Loen Skylift to reach the trail to the top of Skredfjellet. Before descending on the tram, we enjoyed a nice dinner with an even better view at the Hoven Restaurant at the top of the tram.
The top of the Loen Skylift that we used to get to the top of the mountain |
Lori on the deck in front of the Hoven Restaurant with the Jostedalsbreen and Oldevatnet in the background |
This wide angle shot captures the top of the tram, the Kjenndalsbreen above the Lovatnet, the village of Loen, the Innvikfjord, and the Jostedalsbreen above the Oldevatnet. |
Lori and Bill with the dramatic backdrop of the
Kjenndalsbreen, the Lovatnet, and the village of Loen |
Dan, Stefano, Lori, Cindy, and Jobie have a snack at the top of Skredfjellet. |
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The Kjenndalsbreen is a branch of the Jostedalsbreen; the Loen Skylift, Hoven Restaurant, and Lovatnet are in the foreground. |
The Jostedalsbreen looming over the Oldevatnet is the largest glacier on continental Europe |
Cindy, Ron, Donna, Larry, Toby, and Lori walk back to the Hotel Alexandra from the Loen Skylift. |
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We started the day with a drive to Hellesylt where we boarded a fast RIB to Skageflå. I opted to skip the hike and walked through Geiranger and hiked to the top of Storsæterfossen instead. Geiranger is a Scandinavian travel favorite of Lonely Planet and the area has been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2005.
We checked into the Grande Fjord Hotel, relaxed in the jacuzzi, and hopped in--and quickly out--of the fjord.
Ron photobombs Lori and Bill settling into the RIB. |
Lori, Ron, Mats, Dan, Jobie, Stefano, and Bill are whisked away on a very fast RIB. |
An old sætra perched precariously above the Geirangerfjord |
Bente gives us a personal history of the farms in the area. |
She basically owns the entire side of this mountain; her home is in the middle of the photograph about a third the way up the mountain. |
One of many waterfalls that empties into the Geirangerfjord |
Toby, Larry, Dan, Stefano, Mats, Cindy, and others behind the trees disembark for their hike up a precipitous path to the Skageflå farm; I opted for plan B. |
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This river flows through the village of Geiranger. |
A little more upstream is a waterfall. |
The Storsæterfossen |
Behind the Storsæterfossen |
My lunch spot above the Storsæterfossen |
Upstream from the Storsæterfossen |
Lori in front of the Grande Fjord Hotel in Geiranger |
Our room in the Grande Fjord Hotel in Geiranger above the Geirangerfjord |
And the view from our bedroom window |
We started the day visiting the Geirangerfjord Museum to learn about the fjord's farming and geologic history dating back 2 million years. The ice age carved the valleys and fjords and the land rose as the ice receded.
We then drove up to the top of the hill behind the hotel. One group went up to the Geitfonnegga for an impressive view of the fjord, while I joined another group for a gentler hike to the Grandevatnet.
Lori checked out the town of Geiranger, and I had dinner at the Geiranger Brenneri (Distillery) next to the hotel.
Lori takes in the stunning view of the mountains mirrored in the still waters of the iconic Geirangerfjord. |
Our trail heads up over this glacial moraine. |
It is ironic that this sætra, which wouldn't be affected by landslides or avalanches, has been abandoned. |
Lori leads the way with Jobie, Dan, Toby, and Larry in hot pursuit. |
Mats assists Lori over this collapsed bridge while Dan looks on. |
Mats and Lori savor the wonderful weather. |
Lori hikes up the gentle (and boggy) valley along with Jobie, Dan, and Larry. |
Lori, Dan, Jobie, Larry, and Toby pause to take in the scenery. |
Bill and Lori pose in front of the Møllsvatnet. |
Mats beats a path through the snow to the Grandevatnet. |
Lori follows in his footsteps. |
Mats distributes chocolate to Dan, Jobie, Bill, Toby, and Larry at our lunch spot above the Grandevatnet. |
Bill and Lori slow down for a delicious lunch, while the wide-angle lens does Mats absolutely no favors. |
Above our lunch spot at the Grandevatnet |
The wooden top half of these sætra was likely moved elsewhere; since rocks are plentiful--and heavy--they are left behind. |
Why do some precarious sætra thrive while these accessible ones lie abandoned? |
Pyramidal bugle |
The cloudberry produces a delicious orange berry. |
Mats leads Lori, Larry, and Toby out of this lovely valley. |
Arctic starflower |
Meadow buttercup |
Yet another abandoned sætra in an idyllic spot |
Looking downstream on a bridge that hasn't yet washed out (like the previous bridge) |
Looking upstream |
We checked out of the Grande Fjord Hotel, took the ferry from Eidsdal to Linge across the Norddalsfjord and continued on for a bit for the start of our hike to Mefjellet. This was our first rainy, cold hike in several days.
We warmed up in the Khaya Barista Bar in Validal with cappuccinos, beers, and cheesecake while we waited for Øystein to pick us up to deliver us to our next hotel by boat.
Except that the hotel wasn't near the dock. We had to hike up a hill for about a mile. Eventually, the Storfjord Hotel, consisting of very upscale log cabins, emerged in the woods. This hotel was the pièce de résistance of this trip with lovely rooms with spectacular views, great food, and excellent service.
We take a ferry across the Norddalsfjord from Eidsdal to Linge. |
The ferry leaves Eidsdal. |
The other ferry crossing the Norddalsfjord |
Our bus on the ferry |
Stefano and Lori and others begin the hike to Mefjellet. |
Wildflowers yield to bucolic farms, unfolding into the dramatic valley beyond |
Cow parsley |
Donna, Cindy, Jobie, Stefano, Ron, and Dan climb above the Norddalsfjord far below. |
Larry, Toby, and Mats lead the climb. |
We break for chocolate among these cabins above the Norddalsfjord (not pictured: sheep trying to score a handout). |
Lori works hard along with Jobie, Dan, Donna, Cindy, and Mats. |
Ex Machina was shot in this valley just to the north of Mefjellet. |
Lori and Bill eat lunch in the cold rain, but still appear to be having a great time. |
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Mats, Ron, and one other shelter from the wind on top of Mefjellet. |
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Stefano leads Donna, Cindy, and Ron along an alternate route back to the bus. |
A great lesson in the bathroom of the Khaya Barista Bar in Valldal |
Toby and Larry outside the Khaya Barista Bar in Valldal |
Yet another lovely waterfall by the Storfjord |
Øystein edges the bow of his boat under this waterfall so that a few brave souls can take a shower. |
As we backed away, I saw the full height of the waterfall. |
We near the bay where our next hotel is located; the hill in the middle is the one we would climb tomorrow. |
Ron, Donna, Cindy, and Lori climb the trail lined with ancient stones to the hotel. |
Lori, Dan, Toby, and Larry walk through the woods. |
Jobie, Stefano, Ron, Donna, Cindy, and Lori arrive at the elegant and rustic Storfjord Hotel; our room was in the building at the far right. |
Our room at the Storfjord Hotel |
Our room at the Storfjord Hotel |
Our room at the Storfjord Hotel |
The entrance to the hotel has the character of a summer farm. |
Toby, Dan, and Jobie sit down at our banquet table. |
Stefano, Mats, and Toby chat at the koselig table aglow with candles. |
The first of several delicious courses |
Larry and Donna share a laugh between courses. |
Dan, Ron, and Bill watch the rain after dinner while savoring their wine. |
The rain breaks and reveals a rainbow. |
We were treated to a leisurely start time for our last hike of the trip. We hiked directly from the hotel through a lovely mixed birch and pine forest to the top of a nearby hill called Haugtua where we stopped for lunch. The last stretch was along a delightful gravel road with whimsical items.
A postcard view of the Storfjord from our room at the Storfjord Hotel |
A view of the Storfjord Hotel grounds from our balcony |
After a relaxing start on a fire road, the trail suddenly gets much steeper for Lori, Mats, and Larry. |
The consensus was that these trees died of old age, and not by fire or disease, and certainly not by drought. |
Dan, Mats, Lori, and Larry take a breather now that the trail has flattened out a bit. |
Lori sits at the diminutive, roughly-hewn picnic bench where we had eaten lunch. Note the network of roots. |
Panning right, we see Stefano enjoying the view along with Lori. |
We then see Ron, Dan, Larry, Jobie, and Toby doing, whatever it is they are doing. |
The village of Skodje in the distance |
Stefano watches Toby, Larry and Lori descend. |
Stefano continues the descent. |
Heath spotted orchid |
Ron, Toby, Stefano, and Larry on the gentle road back to the hotel |
There be trolls here. Hiking trolls! |
There's one now. |
Something is afoot on this trail. |
There's a fox! |
There's the troll's house, and his phone. There are some wild animals lurking in the background. |
I'm not quite sure what creature she is supposed to be, but she has a tail. |
And there's her mate. |
An upside down flower pot painted like a toadstool home for fairies or gnomes |
After a week of pretty great weather, we woke up to rain. After checking out of the amazing Storfjord Hotel, we dropped off Donna and Cindy in Ålesund before heading off to the extremely quiet airport for our flight to Copenhagen.
We spent the night in the Comfort Hotel at the airport. We had a small, but quiet and comfortable room with a nice view of the waterfront. It was quite the change in accommodations! After dinner in the restaurant in the hotel next door, we walked through a sea of yellow jerseys in the bar. The Swedish fans gathered to watch their team play the Netherlands in the World Cup. We watched the game in our hotel room. Sadly for the fans in the bar, the Swedes lost.
The next morning, we were pleasantly surprised with a short 5-10 minute wait in the passport control line before catching our flight to SFO. We were even more surprised when we met our friends Rebecca and Geoff at the gate!
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Copyright © 2026 Bill Wohler Last modified: Fri Jul 3 09:53:41 AM PDT 2026 About photos |
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