England Coast to Coast Walk—August, 2024
Lori, Dan, and I wanted to see how rugged England could be, and
we were surprised that there are some pretty dramatic mountains
carved by glaciers, especially on the West Coast in the Lake
District. One unusual aspect of this trip is that a pub was
usually available at the end of each hike to tip a pint.
Here's a short treatise on the political divisions of the UK.
The largest components are
countries such as England,
counties such as Yorkshire, and towns and cities such as
York. Britain consists of the countries of England and Wales,
Great Britain adds Scotland, and the United Kingdom adds
Northern Ireland. The counties get confusing though. England has
48 ceremonial counties but 84 metropolitan and non-metropolitan
counties (outside Greater London and the Isles of Scilly),
whatever that means. Locals don't know either. Scotland has 33
counties, Wales has 22, and Northern Ireland has a reasonable
count of 6 counties that are easier to memorize.
After enjoying the captions below, you can view larger versions
of the photos by clicking on them. This will open a new tab in
Google Photos. Use its menu to start a slideshow, or select a
photo and press the Info button to view captions and maps.
I find that the embedded AllTrails maps don't always show up.
Sometimes refreshing the page several times helps. If it
doesn't, just click on the "Bill Wohler's Activity" link in the
upper right-hand corner to view the map on its own page. The
link to the map name often takes you to the curated trail, which
can differ slightly than our actual trek, but offers comments
and photos from others.
Travel to Manchester (Sunday, 2024-07-28)
We took a route that others did not. We flew direct to Dublin
and then on to Manchester. That route turned out to be faster
than going through Heathrow or more remote cities. We had a
decent lunch in the Dublin Airport along with a Guinness. We
completed our journey in a prop plane over the Irish Sea to the
Manchester airport and walked to the
Radisson Blu Hotel. Dan arrived while we were still in the
lobby. We had a beer in the M-Bar in the hotel (see photo) and
later had dinner at the Collage Restaurant, also in the hotel.
We saw this poster in the bar in our airport hotel and
learned that Manchester was the hometown for the
Buzzcocks!
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Walking Tour of Manchester (Monday, 2024-07-29)
On our first day, we took a walking tour of Manchester. We took
the train into town, which was a nice, quiet, fast electric
train like the ones coming to Caltrain back home, hopefully
soon. We walked from
Piccadilly Station to the Manchester Central Library and then
from
Manchester Central Library to the Corn Exchange. On the
way, we had a yummy lunch at
Pieminister Deansgate. We then walked from the
Corn Exchange back to Piccadilly Station. We enjoyed
some tasty pizza at
Rudy's Pizza Napoletana on Portland Street before hitting
the train station.
The trains are commonly canceled in England because the drivers
decide they don't want to come in, so we ended up taking an Uber
back to our hotel near the airport and had a nice conversation
with the driver who is from
Eritrea.
A sculpture that recognizes
Vimto, a soft drink that originated in Manchester
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Lori poses with a sculpture of Alan Turing, who devised
a machine to use the mathematics created by the Poles to
break the German 'Enigma' code
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A stained glass window at the front of the Manchester
Central Library commemorating Shakespeare
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The oh so quiet reading room in the Manchester Central Library
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Having lunch in Pieminister, Deansgate
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The "Gentlemens Saloon" where the barbers
have tattoos, and the gorilla wields a "No
dickheads" sign
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The
Moon Under Water in the building of the former
Deansgate Picture House cinema is one of the largest
public houses in the United Kingdom
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The
worker bee is one of the best-known symbols of Manchester
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One of several murals in the Northern Quarter
Photo by Dan Heller
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Some cool posters in a stairwell at the
Afflecks Arcade including The Smiths and Joy
Division who hearken from Manchester
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From the Irish Sea... (Tuesday, 2024-07-30)
We met the rest of the group (Emma, Joy, Michael, Robert,
Shannon, Chris, Steve, Sarah), guides (Tony and Stanko), and
driver (Peter) in the lobby of the hotel. From there, we drove
to the
Ratty Arms for lunch. Fortified with our pints, we dipped
our toes in the
Irish Sea, pocketed a pebble from the beach, and headed
off across the
Muncaster Fell. A fell refers to the the
mountains and hills of the Lake District and the Pennine Dales.
We were introduced to new flora and fauna native to the region.
We spent the night in the lovely
Sella Park Country House Hotel where we also had dinner.
Our intrepid group starts its journey from the
Ratty Arms
Photo by Peter Koronka
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Lori and I at the start of our journey across
England
Photo by Dan Heller
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We will follow those acorns for a couple of weeks
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Herb Robert growing inside a post near the Roman bath houses
Geranium robertianum
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Great wilowherb near the Roman bath houses
Epilobium hirsutum
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We'll see European meadowsweet often during our
journey
Filipendula ulmaria
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Unfortunately, we'll also see ragwort often in our
journey as well
Jacobaea vulgaris
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The purple foxglove, which brings me back to New
Zealand, as I saw many during my trip with my parents in
1993-4
Digitalis purpurea
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The butterfly bush
Buddleja davidii
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The Muncaster Church near the Muncaster Castle
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Many of our "trails" were dirt roads between
walls, often covered with ferns or berries
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Cross-leaved heath was the first heather to greet us
Erica tetralix
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I'm looking good, but we haven't yet climbed
that hill/mountain behind me
Photo by Dan Heller
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We often saw the European mountain ash
Sorbus aucuparia
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A quick shot of an adder as it slithered away
Vipera berus
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Our room in the Sella Park Country House Hotel
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The comfortable grounds of the Sella Park Country House Hotel
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The Sella Park Country House Hotel
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Hike to Boot and Eskdale Fell (Wednesday, 2024-07-31)
Our morning hike ended with a tour of the
Eskdale Mill followed by lunch at the
Boot Inn.
The afternoon hike took us past some very old cow'uses,
which combined living quarters and shelters for cows, and
Burnmoor stone circles. We learned that a garth
is a field.
Steve and Sarah were always holding hands and it warmed my heart
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This was the first of many signs that didn't stop us
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The first old stone bridge we would cross
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Peter, Stanko, and I stroll under the old oaks
Photo by Dan Heller
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The two lines at the base of the chimneys indicate
where the old thatched roofs would have been before they
were replaced by a "modern" roof
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There's a bridge, but it's much more fun to
jump from rock to rock
Photo by Dan Heller
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The group poses by a very scenic river
Photo by Peter Koronka
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Lori and I pose in front of the river and bridge
Photo by Dan Heller
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The remote St Catherine's Church
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Moss and grass (and possibly herb Robert) grow in the
walls surrounding the St Catherine's Church
Geranium robertianum
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Inside the St Catherine's Church
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The stained glass windows of the St Catherine's Church
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The sheep of St Catherine's Church keep the grass trimmed
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More maidenhair spleenwort in the rock walls
Asplenium trichomanes
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Our group gathers to tour the Eskdale Mill
Photo by Peter Koronka
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European black elderberry produces both elderflower
liqueur and elderberry wine
Sambucus nigra
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The Robinson's Boot Inn in Boot where we stopped for lunch
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Lori makes the climb after lunch
Photo by Dan Heller
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Bill leads the B-team after lunch, where B stands for beer
Photo by Dan Heller
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Bill poses in front of some very old co'uses
Photo by Dan Heller
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Dinner at Muncaster Castle (Wednesday, 2024-07-31)
That evening, we were given a tour of the
Muncaster Castle and had dinner with owners. I found that
Yorkshire tea is delicious.
The group poses for a photo in front of the
Muncaster Castle
Photo by Peter Koronka
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A picture frame in front of the Muncaster Castle
Photo by Dan Heller
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Our leaders are framed in front of the Muncaster Castle
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Text from the Roman era found on site
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We are greeted with bright red paint and family portraits
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The wildcat is the Pennington family crest
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At my spot at the dining table with Peter Pennington
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A bust of a former madame in front of the lovely view
of the Lake District mountains
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We feast with Peter and Iona Pennington in their dining room
Photo by Peter Koronka
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We feast with Peter and Iona Pennington in their dining room
Photo by Peter Koronka
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A couple of books, one handwritten, the other with a
handwritten preamble, fin the library
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The octagon library with thousands of old books
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A couple of books, one handwritten, the other with a
handwritten preamble, from the early 18th and 19th
centuries, in the library
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Peter Pennington points out the portraits in the library
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Peter describes one of the many treasures of the
library including this apothecary box of tinctures and
potions
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One of many rooms with portraits
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A print of Turner's Fighting Temeraire, tugged to
her last berth to be broken up, 1838
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Panels that are purported to come from the Temeraire
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Ewan Pennington sets off a charge
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Wasdale Head to Borrowdale via Styhead Pass (Thursday, 2024-08-01)
We began the day with a photo-op by the
Wastwater and a visit to
St. Olaf's church, the smallest parish church in England.
It was there that
Joss Naylor was freshly buried. He was a well-known
fell-runner and friends had run over 30 miles to attend his
funeral here. And then they ran home.
After the hike, we checked into the
Skiddaw Hotel in Keswick and got pho at
Little Saigon.
Lori in front of Wastwater in front of the iconic Great
Gable and the target of our day's hike
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And we're off!
Photo by Dan Heller
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First stop was St Olaf's church
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A great fell runner,
Joss Naylor, was very recently buried here;
friends and fans ran over 30 miles to attend his
funeral
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There were so many rocks, the walls weren't enough,
so they just piled them up
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Our path traverses the front of the Great Gable
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Lori pauses, but near the bottom
Photo by Dan Heller
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Bill climbs
Photo by Dan Heller
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We scramble over some rocks, but the efforts of others
in the past to form a trail make the route easier
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Lori pauses again, but at the top
Photo by Dan Heller
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A stretcher box at the pass that can double as an emergency shelter
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A stretcher box at the pass that can double as an emergency shelter
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Tony hangs with the locals
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Lori takes a break just before lunch above the Sprinkling Tarn
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Lori, Bill, and Tony start the descent from our lunch spot
Photo by Dan Heller
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Our (relatively) small room in the Skiddaw Hotel in Keswick
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The Skiddaw Hotel in Keswick
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Grasmere to Ullwater via Grisedale Hause (Friday, 2024-08-02)
We picked up our picnic lunch at the
Booths supermarket in Keswick. This meant that we weren't
having a pint with lunch. We then toured
Dove Cottage (see also
Wikipedia article) at Wordsworth Grasmere, where
William Wordsworth and his sister
Dorothy Wordsworth lived.
After the hike, we had a beer at the
Patterdale Hotel and then checked in at the charming
Macdonald Leeming House. We had a lovely dinner in the
hotel. I had the mushroom soup and risotto.
Ferns and plants grow out of this wall near the Dove Cottage
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The room where William Wordsworth and later his wife Mary slept
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The dining and sitting room where William Wordsworth
might have written most of his verses
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William Wordsworth's sister Dorothy slept here and
lined the walls with newspaper for warmth
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The room where two of William Wordsworth's children grew up
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Dove Cottage from the backyard
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Lori and I have fun with the period costumes in the museum
Photo by Dan Heller
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And Bill, Steve, and Sarah are off again!
Photo by Dan Heller
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The banana slugs of England are black
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Lori and Tony climb through the
bracken
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Looking down after our climb
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Lori and I in front of the waterfall at the top
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Dan takes a selfie with Lori and I and a photo-bomb by Steve
Photo by Dan Heller
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Over the pass and down to Grisedale Tarn
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I ford the stream below the Grisedale Tarn
Photo by Tony Dewes
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Whoa, Dan! We're stopping for lunch here
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The "brothers parting" stone where William
Wordsworth last saw his brother John, contains words from
a couple of William's poems.
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Here did we stop; and here looked round
While each into himself descends,
For that last thought of parting friends
That is not to be found.
Brother and friend, if verse of mine
Have power to make thy virtues known,
Here let a monumental Stone
Stand - sacred as a Shrine.
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Lori dons the waterproofs as the rain descends
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Lori hikes out of the misty valley
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An old cow'us has signs for the path from which we came and the path that should not be followed
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Our lovely room in the Macdonald Leeming House
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The Macdonald Leeming House
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The Macdonald Leeming House
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A bench overlooks Ullswater
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A pair of chairs overlook the Ullswater, although the chair on the right is missing something...something
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The back of the Macdonald Leeming House
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The back of the Macdonald Leeming House
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Lori and Joy enjoy a good joke
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The bar in the Macdonald Leeming House, which sadly we did not have time to enjoy
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Your guess is as good as mine as to what Sarah is measuring as we wait for dessert
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Ullswater to Haweswater (Saturday, 2024-08-03)
We hit our first motorway today (M6). Once we were back on the
narrow country roads just outside of Orton, the muffler bracket
broke and the muffler scraped on the road briefly. Within a half
hour, their local mechanic Matt drove out and tied the muffler
up with zip ties and we were on our way. We then dropped down
from the mountains into the
Eden Valley with fields, walls, and small towns. We
checked into the
Appleby Manor Hotel in
Appleby and had a lovely dinner at the
Four & Twenty in
Penrith.
Glenridding, a pretty little town along a river
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Church of St Patrick in Patterdale across the street from our starting point
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Bill hikes up from Patterdale
Photo by Dan Heller
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This valley was once part of the Ullswater lake to the
north until it was filled with sediment
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Angle Tarn from the other side
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A valley on the other side of the pass
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Our lunch spot is just past that nose
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Bill and Lori crest a pass
Photo by Dan Heller
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Bill walks above the surprisingly striking mountains
(for England) cut by glaciers
Photo by Dan Heller
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Sarah on the nose mentioned previously
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A brief lunch break behind a wind break
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Tony heads off with the Haweswater Reservoir in the background
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Bluebell of Scotland
Campanula rotundifolia with a fly inside!
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A bus, a car, a horse, and a very narrow road--somehow
everyone went their merry way
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Our room in the Appleby Manor Hotel, another nice old building
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A Laurel and Hardy miniature
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Smardale Gill (Sunday, 2024-08-04)
Our morning hike was in
the Smardale
Gill area where we had views of an abandoned lime kiln and
limestone quarry. A gill is a ravine with a stream,
or beck, in the base which eroded the ravine. A few of
us had lunch at
The Mulberry Bush Cafe in
Kirkby Stephen.
We're now entering Yorkshire Dales
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We still have Coast to Coast signs, but where are the acorns?
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The Smardale Gill Viaduct that Tony wanted to hike
over, but didn't due to construction
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The troop marches on to the Nine Standards on the hill opposite
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Who is from Yorkshire? (Hint: the one in short sleeves)
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The bluebell of Scotland and ferns in a wall
Campanula rotundifolia
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"Unattended children will be given espresso and a free kitten"
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Lori, Dan, Robert, and I take lunch at the Mulberry Bush Cafe in Kirkby Stephen
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Downtown Kirkby Stephen with motorcyclists
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The Kirkby Stephen Parish Church
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A quilt in the Kirkby Stephen Parish Church with a map
of the Coast to Coast walk, with churches, of course!
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The Kirkby Stephen Parish Church contains a small
museum with Roman artifacts uncovered in the grounds
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The Loki Stone in the Kirkby Stephen Parish Church
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The pews and altar of the Kirkby Stephen Parish Church
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Nine Standards Rigg (Sunday, 2024-08-04)
Our afternoon hike took us to the
Nine Standards Rigg. Rigg is derived from the
Scottish word for ridge. The bogs weren't as bad as advertised
but we got our gaiters dirty for the first time.
These protective tree tubes are clearly not quite tall enough
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Lori walks past the first pile of rocks on the way to the Nine Standards
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Tony says, "If you're working a fell runner
race and you have to hang out, why not built a couch from
rock?"
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Lori ascends to the Nine Standards
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Our group mingles with others in the Nine Standards
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One of the Nine Standards and the valley below
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Dan sinks in one of our wettest bogs
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Lori and Michael in a deep conversation at dinner in the Appleby Manor Hotel
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Keld to Gunnerside (Monday, 2024-08-05)
At the trailhead, we lingered in a small museum in
Keld where we learned about cow houses, known locally as a
cow'us. While they are all abandoned and falling
apart now, they provided shelter for both the cows and the
farmer and storage for hay back in the days where it would
take a day for the farmer to reach his herds.
At the start of the morning hike, we were treated with a series
of waterfalls including the
East Gill Force, shown below, and took us through a range
of sights along the
River Swale to
Gunnerside where we had lunch at the
Kings Head public house.
Loitering outside the Keld Resource Center where we
learned about cow'uses or barns, which have been
largely abandoned
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The Poo Fairy doesn't live here...Scoop your poop
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A waterfall on the East Gill
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Our troop is blocked by a wall of sheep
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Tony and Lori have fun on the remnants of an old
tractor
Photo by Dan Heller
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Beldhi Hill Mill, a lead mine from the late 18th century
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Tony sports his Yorkshire banner
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The sign says, "Great Rampshone cowhouse. To
protect the meadow crop please walk to and from the barn
in single file."
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Bill crosses a maze of rock walls
Photo by Dan Heller
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The stiles, narrow to prevent sheep from getting
through, can still be challenging for humans
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The first sign we see in Gunnerside says a "Few
more steps" to the pub
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Lunch in the King's Head pub
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A sign next to the bathroom reads, "Welcome to Bullshit Corner"
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Gunnerside to Reeth (Monday, 2024-08-05)
After lunch, we continued the hike along the River Swale from
Gunnerside to
Reeth.
We checked into
Easby Hall overlooking
Easby Abbey, met the owners Karen and John Clarke, and
settled into a nice dinner in their dining room. I promised to
show John how to make a Manhattan before I left.
I did say the stiles were a challenge
Photo by Dan Heller
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Bill leads through the dale
Photo by Dan Heller
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Robert, Lori, Dan, and I goof while walking under the alder trees
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Note the logo within the directional arrow in the
Yorkshire Dales National Park Public Footpath sign
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This section of the trail is on top of a wall; although
it doesn't look like it, it is over six feet tall!
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Bill fends off the ragwort
which is an irritant
Jacobaea vulgaris
Photo by Dan Heller
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Look at the scrotums on those guys!
Photo by Dan Heller
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The path takes us through the small town of Healaugh
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A sign on this house reads, "On this site Sept 5,
1782 nothing happened"
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Dan holds the gate open for me while I read the sign
that says that dog feces can cause illness and death in
the sheep
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We stop for a pint at The Black Bull in Reeth
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A striking stairwell in Easby Hall, even without the art
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A grand piano in the stairwell's landing
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The entrance to Easby Hall is flanked with columns
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The front of the Easby Hall
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The back of the Easby Hall
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We prepare for dinner in the dining room at Easby Hall
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Reeth to Marske (Tuesday, 2024-08-06)
This morning, we hiked from Reeth to
Marske.
Lori gazes out the Easby Abbey from our room in Easby Hall
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The view of Easby Abbey from our room
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European alder cones
Alnus glutinosa
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Bull in field? Of course that's where we're going
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Lori nears the Marrick Priory
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The Marrick Priory, originally a 12th century
Benedictine nunnery, was converted in the 1960s to support
an education and residential center
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Another old cow'us along the trail
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Lori, Bill, and Robert head off to the horizon
Photo by Dan Heller
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Geraldine and Tony
Photo by Dan Heller
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Richmond (Tuesday, 2024-08-06)
After the hike, Peter dropped us all off in
Richmond.
Dan, Lori, and I walked around town, ate lunch at the
Morro Lounge, and bought Wallace's favorite, Wensleydale
cheese. We then walked back on the north side of
the Swale River to see the
drummer boy stone on our way to the
Easby Abbey (see also the
English Heritage site, more on the
abbey's history, and text from
The Reluctant Explorers).
Upon our return to Easby Hall, Karen gave Lori, Dan, Sarah, and
I a tour of the garden. Afterward, Peter took us into town, and Dan,
Robert, Steve, and Sarah joined us for dinner at the
Amontola Indian Restaurant. We then walked back on the
other side of the river at dusk.
We enjoy lunch at the Morrow Lounge before exploring the rest of Richmond
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The center of Richmond and market place
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The Morrow Lounge, where we had lunch, used to be a bank
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Outside the Richmond Castle
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Emma and Dan wander through the streets of Richmond
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Wallace's favorite cheese, Wensleydale!
Photo by Dan Heller
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My best Wallace impression
Photo by Dan Heller
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The tracks lead into this room, which makes you wonder
what's going on in there
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A narrow alley in Richmond
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A common wood-pigeon
Columba palumbus
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The plaque for the Drummer Boy's Stone marks the
spot where the drumming ceased from a drummer boy
exploring the tunnel from Richmond to Easby Abbey in the
late 18th century
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We approach the ruins of the
Easby Abbey, which was suppressed in 1536 and was
either destroyed or was abandoned and left to decay into
ruins during Henry VIII's Dissolution of the
Monasteries
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St Agatha's Church is still active, however
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Lori in front of the gatehouse
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Bill stands guard inside the gatehouse
Photo by Dan Heller
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Lori inside the gatehouse
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Old tombstones outside of the refectory
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The back of the refectory
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The side of the refectory
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Bill enters a vault under the guest hall
Photo by Dan Heller
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The refectory (dining hall)
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English children must be out of control as this was the
second sign we saw that beckoned parents to keep their
children under control
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There is not much left of the church at the center of the abbey
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Dan sets up a time lapse to watch the clouds pass by
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What used to be a small courtyard behind the church and
service buildings is now a wide open space
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Walls of the infirmary, kitchen, abbot's quarters,
and other service buildings
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We exit from whence we came, by the gatehouse
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Bees and lavender in one of the many gardens of Easby Hall
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John Clarke of Easby Hall works in one of the formal gardens
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A large bumblebee visits a Hubei anemone
Eriocapitella hupehensis
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These are the same horses we saw earlier in the pasture by the abbey
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Steve read and rested his shoulder while we walked around town
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A grand old English oak that has fallen over, yet it kept on growing
Quercus robur
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Another view of the abbey
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Another bumblebee finds an artichoke thistle in the food garden
Cynara cardunculus
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A pair of Asian lady beetles make more ladybugs
Harmonia axyridis
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An espaliered pear in the food garden
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Karen Clarke of Easby Hall talks about her food garden with Lori and Sarah
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A pair of cabbage white join in the fun as well
Pieris rapae
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Peter and John relax in the formal garden
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Amontola, where we had a delicious meal
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Osmotherly to Lordstones (Wednesday, 2024-08-07)
We entered the
North York Moors National Park for our hikes today. The
first hike started just a little past
Osmotherly. Along the trail, I saw a creek that ran over
what were obviously laid blocks of stone. This was a
weir. In this case, it was less of a dam and more
of a waterfall to oxygenate the water for fish. We stopped at
Lordstones for beer and sandwiches. We sat at covered
outdoor picnic tables and watched the rain.
Steve and Shannon check out the LWW signpost for the
Lyke Wake Walk, a 64 km walk/run
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The acorn marks all National Trails; below the yellow
public footpath directional arrow is a symbol for this
particular path, but I forget what the symbol was and what
path it represented
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Tony said this weir was used to oxygenate the water for the fish
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Lori's coat matches the heather in bloom
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This Bronze Age burial mound dates from around 2,000 BC
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The heather blooms get better and better
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Lordstones to Great Broughton (Wednesday, 2024-08-07)
We left Lordstones and hiked over two more mountains including
the
Wainstones, a popular photo-op spot. Our room in the
lovely
Crathorne Hall Hotel had a ginormous bath that I simply
couldn't pass up.
Lori makes a break from the peloton
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The plaque reads:
A request from the Holiday Fellowship.
Friend, when you stray, or sit and take your ease,
On moor, or fell, or under spreading trees.
Pray leave no traces of your wayside meal,
No paper bag, no scattered orange peel,
Nor daily journal littered on the grass.
Others may view these with distaste and pass.
Let no one say, and say it to your shame,
That all was beauty here until you came.
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Tony and Lori gaze across the dale whose placenames are engraved on the plate
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A close-up of common heather in bloom
Calluna vulgaris
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Tony points out the metallic iron in the path's stones
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Lori makes the second climb of the day
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This National Trail has googly eyes
Photo by Dan Heller
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A passerby climbs up to the Wainstones
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The Belted Galloway cow, although most folks just call them Oreo cows
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Dan, Lori, and Stanko take photos of Tony on the Wainstones
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Tony stands proud upon the Wainstones as the
threatening squall approaches quickly
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Lori descends from the Wainstones
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This gate was "Dedicated to the memory of Lewis
Halliman (April 1924 - September 2003) and Mary Halliman
(September 1924 - February 2004) Who walked these hills
together for 50 years. Loved beyond words. Missed beyond
tears."
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Our lovely room in the Crathorne Hall Hotel
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I had to take advantage of the full-length tub, the
likes of which would be inappropriate back in
drought-prone California
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The front of the Crathorne Hall Hotel
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Sitting down to dinner in a private room
Photo by Peter Koronka
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The front of the Crathorne Hall Hotel at night
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Gargoyles guard the driveway
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White Cross to Glaisdale on the Glaisdale Moor (Thursday, 2024-08-08)
We stopped for a photo-op at the
White Cross, saw our first grouse, and hiked across the
Glaisdale Moor where we were treated to a riotous display
of heather in full bloom. We stopped for sandwiches at the
Horseshoe Hotel where roosters roamed the picnic area.
The four fells we climbed yesterday are seen out the window of our bus
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We didn't see many red grouse due to climate change, disease, and the
industry's failure to clamp down on wildlife crime,
which caused hunting season to be canceled this year and
adversely affect the local economy
Lagopus lagopus scotica
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Lori finds some more heather to stand in front of
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Lori and Tony stroll across the moors, like Catherine and Heathcliff
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Tony takes a photo of me, Lori, and Dan to send along
to Con Moriarty, who led us on a hike last year through
the north of Ireland
Photo by Tony Dewes
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The heather just gets better and better...
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Atop the Beggar's Bridge
Photo by Peter Koronka
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No, this rooster didn't become lunch, at least not today
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Our picnic buffet at the Horseshoe Hotel takes shape
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Wheeldale Roman Road to Hole of Horcum on the Howl Moor (Thursday, 2024-08-08)
We began our hike near an old Roman road called the
Wheeldale Roman Road. It rained nearly the entire time as
we walked across the Howl Moor. Happily, my new boots and
clothing kept me and my socks dry. We crossed a
beck, which is a small stream or brook. We emerged
from the "spooky wood" to the
Hole of Horcum.
Our last lodging was the
Forest and Vale Hotel in
Pickering. It is a Best Western so we didn't end on a high
note, hotel-wise. However, we had an excellent dinner at the
nearby Willowgate
Bistro.
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Sarah and Michael cross the Wheeldale Beck
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We cross the Lyke Wake Walk again
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We get close to the spooky wood in the rain
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Tony and Lori venture through the "spooky woods"
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We emerge from the spooky Pifelhead Wood and rise above
the
Hole of Horcum on the Howl Moor
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Hayburn Wyke to Ravenscar (Friday, 2024-08-09)
We finally hit the east coast on the
North Sea as we hiked from
Hayburn Wyke (we didn't go to the waterfall on the beach) to
Ravenscar where we stopped for lunch. Our table at the
Raven Hall Hotel had a lovely view of
Robin Hood's Bay.
We start our morning hike with a slightly different
species of the familiar sight of Oxalis - European
wood-sorrel
Oxalis acetosella
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Geraldine and Tony pause over the Hayburn Beck
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Lori, Geraldine, and Tony lead on through the ferns and forest
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Gosh, that looks like hard work, but the view is beautiful!
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Lori, bracken, and the English coastline
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Lori pauses for a moment to take in the splendid view (and good weather!)
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A lovely view of Robin Hood's Bay and the goal of our two week trek
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But first, lunch in the Raven Hall Hotel
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Ravenscar to Robin Hood's Bay (Friday, 2024-08-09)
We continued along the coast from Ravenscar to Robin Hood's Bay.
We dipped our toes in the North Sea and threw in our pebbles
from the Irish Sea. We celebrated the completion of our trek
with a beer at
The Wainwright's Bar in The Bay Hotel.
Our group poses before we make our last hike to tap our
toes in the sea and throw our pebbles in it
Photo by Peter Koronka
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The Peak Alum Works site is in the foreground, the
Raven Hall Hotel where we had lunch is on the hill in the
background
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Our first view of the interesting sedimentary layers along this coastline
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And the sedimentary layers continue all along Robin Hood's Bay
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I take in the view of our goal just ahead
Photo by Dan Heller
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We made it!
Photo by Dan Heller
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Still looking fit after 100 miles of hiking
Photo by Dan Heller
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The beach at Robin Hood's Bay
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A view of our last hike of the trip!
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Steve and Lori stroll under the tall cliffs
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The town of Robin Hood's Bay across the beach
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The beach is awash with tide pools
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Lori and I tap our toes in the North Sea and complete our journey
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Wainwright's Bar in The Bay Hotel
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A placard maps out the route of the Coast to Coast walk - as a crow flies
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York (Saturday, 2024-08-10)
Some of the folks toured
York on the way back to the Manchester airport. I had come
down with COVID so I went on to the hotel instead to sleep.
The next day, we flew home.