Bill walks above the suprisingly striking mountains (for England) cut by glaciers (photo by Dan Heller)

England Coast to Coast Walk—August, 2024


Lori, Dan, and I wanted to see how rugged England could be, and we were surprised that there are some pretty dramatic mountains carved by glaciers, especially on the West Coast in the Lake District. One unusual aspect of this trip is that a pub was usually available at the end of each hike to tip a pint.

Here's a short treatise on the political divisions of the UK. The largest components are countries such as England, counties such as Yorkshire, and towns and cities such as York. Britain consists of the countries of England and Wales, Great Britain adds Scotland, and the United Kingdom adds Northern Ireland. The counties get confusing though. England has 48 ceremonial counties but 84 metropolitan and non-metropolitan counties (outside Greater London and the Isles of Scilly), whatever that means. Locals don't know either. Scotland has 33 counties, Wales has 22, and Northern Ireland has a reasonable count of 6 counties that are easier to memorize.

After enjoying the captions below, you can view larger versions of the photos by clicking on them. This will open a new tab in Google Photos. Use its menu to start a slideshow, or select a photo and press the Info button to view captions and maps.

I find that the embedded AllTrails maps don't always show up. Sometimes refreshing the page several times helps. If it doesn't, just click on the "Bill Wohler's Activity" link in the upper right-hand corner to view the map on its own page. The link to the map name often takes you to the curated trail, which can differ slightly than our actual trek, but offers comments and photos from others.


Travel to Manchester (Sunday, 2024-07-28)

We took a route that others did not. We flew direct to Dublin and then on to Manchester. That route turned out to be faster than going through Heathrow or more remote cities. We had a decent lunch in the Dublin Airport along with a Guinness. We completed our journey in a prop plane over the Irish Sea to the Manchester airport and walked to the Radisson Blu Hotel. Dan arrived while we were still in the lobby. We had a beer in the M-Bar in the hotel (see photo) and later had dinner at the Collage Restaurant, also in the hotel.



Walking Tour of Manchester (Monday, 2024-07-29)

On our first day, we took a walking tour of Manchester. We took the train into town, which was a nice, quiet, fast electric train like the ones coming to Caltrain back home, hopefully soon. We walked from Piccadilly Station to the Manchester Central Library and then from Manchester Central Library to the Corn Exchange. On the way, we had a yummy lunch at Pieminister Deansgate. We then walked from the Corn Exchange back to Piccadilly Station. We enjoyed some tasty pizza at Rudy's Pizza Napoletana on Portland Street before hitting the train station.

The trains are commonly canceled in England because the drivers decide they don't want to come in, so we ended up taking an Uber back to our hotel near the airport and had a nice conversation with the driver who is from Eritrea.



From the Irish Sea... (Tuesday, 2024-07-30)

We met the rest of the group (Emma, Joy, Michael, Robert, Shannon, Chris, Steve, Sarah), guides (Tony and Stanko), and driver (Peter) in the lobby of the hotel. From there, we drove to the Ratty Arms for lunch. Fortified with our pints, we dipped our toes in the Irish Sea, pocketed a pebble from the beach, and headed off across the Muncaster Fell. A fell refers to the the mountains and hills of the Lake District and the Pennine Dales. We were introduced to new flora and fauna native to the region.

We spent the night in the lovely Sella Park Country House Hotel where we also had dinner.



Hike to Boot and Eskdale Fell (Wednesday, 2024-07-31)

Our morning hike ended with a tour of the Eskdale Mill followed by lunch at the Boot Inn.

The afternoon hike took us past some very old cow'uses, which combined living quarters and shelters for cows, and Burnmoor stone circles. We learned that a garth is a field.



Dinner at Muncaster Castle (Wednesday, 2024-07-31)

That evening, we were given a tour of the Muncaster Castle and had dinner with owners. I found that Yorkshire tea is delicious.



Wasdale Head to Borrowdale via Styhead Pass (Thursday, 2024-08-01)

We began the day with a photo-op by the Wastwater and a visit to St. Olaf's church, the smallest parish church in England. It was there that Joss Naylor was freshly buried. He was a well-known fell-runner and friends had run over 30 miles to attend his funeral here. And then they ran home.

After the hike, we checked into the Skiddaw Hotel in Keswick and got pho at Little Saigon.



Grasmere to Ullwater via Grisedale Hause (Friday, 2024-08-02)

We picked up our picnic lunch at the Booths supermarket in Keswick. This meant that we weren't having a pint with lunch. We then toured Dove Cottage (see also Wikipedia article) at Wordsworth Grasmere, where William Wordsworth and his sister Dorothy Wordsworth lived.

After the hike, we had a beer at the Patterdale Hotel and then checked in at the charming Macdonald Leeming House. We had a lovely dinner in the hotel. I had the mushroom soup and risotto.



Ullswater to Haweswater (Saturday, 2024-08-03)

We hit our first motorway today (M6). Once we were back on the narrow country roads just outside of Orton, the muffler bracket broke and the muffler scraped on the road briefly. Within a half hour, their local mechanic Matt drove out and tied the muffler up with zip ties and we were on our way. We then dropped down from the mountains into the Eden Valley with fields, walls, and small towns. We checked into the Appleby Manor Hotel in Appleby and had a lovely dinner at the Four & Twenty in Penrith.



Smardale Gill (Sunday, 2024-08-04)

Our morning hike was in the Smardale Gill area where we had views of an abandoned lime kiln and limestone quarry. A gill is a ravine with a stream, or beck, in the base which eroded the ravine. A few of us had lunch at The Mulberry Bush Cafe in Kirkby Stephen.



Nine Standards Rigg (Sunday, 2024-08-04)

Our afternoon hike took us to the Nine Standards Rigg. Rigg is derived from the Scottish word for ridge. The bogs weren't as bad as advertised but we got our gaiters dirty for the first time.



Keld to Gunnerside (Monday, 2024-08-05)

At the trailhead, we lingered in a small museum in Keld where we learned about cow houses, known locally as a cow'us. While they are all abandoned and falling apart now, they provided shelter for both the cows and the farmer and storage for hay back in the days where it would take a day for the farmer to reach his herds.

At the start of the morning hike, we were treated with a series of waterfalls including the East Gill Force, shown below, and took us through a range of sights along the River Swale to Gunnerside where we had lunch at the Kings Head public house.



Gunnerside to Reeth (Monday, 2024-08-05)

After lunch, we continued the hike along the River Swale from Gunnerside to Reeth.

We checked into Easby Hall overlooking Easby Abbey, met the owners Karen and John Clarke, and settled into a nice dinner in their dining room. I promised to show John how to make a Manhattan before I left.



Reeth to Marske (Tuesday, 2024-08-06)

This morning, we hiked from Reeth to Marske.



Richmond (Tuesday, 2024-08-06)

After the hike, Peter dropped us all off in Richmond. Dan, Lori, and I walked around town, ate lunch at the Morro Lounge, and bought Wallace's favorite, Wensleydale cheese. We then walked back on the north side of the Swale River to see the drummer boy stone on our way to the Easby Abbey (see also the English Heritage site, more on the abbey's history, and text from The Reluctant Explorers).

Upon our return to Easby Hall, Karen gave Lori, Dan, Sarah, and I a tour of the garden. Afterward, Peter took us into town, and Dan, Robert, Steve, and Sarah joined us for dinner at the Amontola Indian Restaurant. We then walked back on the other side of the river at dusk.



Osmotherly to Lordstones (Wednesday, 2024-08-07)

We entered the North York Moors National Park for our hikes today. The first hike started just a little past Osmotherly. Along the trail, I saw a creek that ran over what were obviously laid blocks of stone. This was a weir. In this case, it was less of a dam and more of a waterfall to oxygenate the water for fish. We stopped at Lordstones for beer and sandwiches. We sat at covered outdoor picnic tables and watched the rain.



Lordstones to Great Broughton (Wednesday, 2024-08-07)

We left Lordstones and hiked over two more mountains including the Wainstones, a popular photo-op spot. Our room in the lovely Crathorne Hall Hotel had a ginormous bath that I simply couldn't pass up.



White Cross to Glaisdale on the Glaisdale Moor (Thursday, 2024-08-08)

We stopped for a photo-op at the White Cross, saw our first grouse, and hiked across the Glaisdale Moor where we were treated to a riotous display of heather in full bloom. We stopped for sandwiches at the Horseshoe Hotel where roosters roamed the picnic area.



Wheeldale Roman Road to Hole of Horcum on the Howl Moor (Thursday, 2024-08-08)

We began our hike near an old Roman road called the Wheeldale Roman Road. It rained nearly the entire time as we walked across the Howl Moor. Happily, my new boots and clothing kept me and my socks dry. We crossed a beck, which is a small stream or brook. We emerged from the "spooky wood" to the Hole of Horcum.

Our last lodging was the Forest and Vale Hotel in Pickering. It is a Best Western so we didn't end on a high note, hotel-wise. However, we had an excellent dinner at the nearby Willowgate Bistro.



Hayburn Wyke to Ravenscar (Friday, 2024-08-09)

We finally hit the east coast on the North Sea as we hiked from Hayburn Wyke (we didn't go to the waterfall on the beach) to Ravenscar where we stopped for lunch. Our table at the Raven Hall Hotel had a lovely view of Robin Hood's Bay.



Ravenscar to Robin Hood's Bay (Friday, 2024-08-09)

We continued along the coast from Ravenscar to Robin Hood's Bay. We dipped our toes in the North Sea and threw in our pebbles from the Irish Sea. We celebrated the completion of our trek with a beer at The Wainwright's Bar in The Bay Hotel.



York (Saturday, 2024-08-10)

Some of the folks toured York on the way back to the Manchester airport. I had come down with COVID so I went on to the hotel instead to sleep.

The next day, we flew home.



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