Raja Ampat—December, 2019
Diving in Raja Ampat and Lembeh Strait were on my
bucket list. Lori and I went to both this December. Our friend
Deb joined us, as did our old dive buddies Murray and Jen from
Chicago and Paul and Bonnie from Vancouver.
While in Lembeh Strait, we stayed at the
Lembeh Resort, which turned out to be a fine resort
with good food, service, and diving. For Raja Ampat, we cruised
with
Blue Manta, which was quite a step up from the
Aggressor fleet (sorry Waynes). We not once had to pick up and
walk with our tanks, and the rooms have plenty of room so that
more than one person can walk around at a time. And the boat has
a large camera room!
After enjoying the captions below, you can view larger versions
of the photos by clicking on them. This will open a new tab in
Google Photos. Use its menu to start
a slideshow,
or select a photo and press the Info button to view captions and
maps.
The video of the diving aboard the Blue Manta was created
by PJ Widestrand. He graciously allowed me to load it to
YouTube for viewing by friends and family only. To respect his
wishes, if you would like to see it, please send your request by
email and I'll send along the link. By the way, it's great!
Drone footage shot by fellow diver Bader Al-Kazmawi.
Preamble (Saturday, 2019-12-14)
Lori and I got lucky and didn't have anyone in the seat between
us for the 17(!) hour flight to Singapore aboard
a Singapore Airlines jet. The seats were comfortable. We
didn't use our butt pads. We spent the night at the Crowne
Plaza in the airport, where we met up with Paul and Bonnie.
Singapore to Lembeh Strait (Monday, 2019-12-16)
We lost a day crossing the international date line. We started
the day in the hotel with a beautiful buffet breakfast with all
sorts of international things.
Immigration is wholly automated at the airport, so there weren't
any lines at the time. Further, they locate the security checks
at each gate. This has the effect of eliminating long security
lines. Each gate has a water station beyond security.
After a relatively short (3:15) flight from Singapore
to Manado, we circled once to let a squall pass through.
As it was, it was pouring at the airport. We were met at the
airport for our 1.5 hour drive to the resort. The last bit was
by water taxi. About 10 of the Lembeh Resort staff greeted us at
the dock including managers Tarkan (Afghan who lived in
England) and Kathrin (from Germany) and dive shop
manager Gita (also from Germany). We checked into room 1,
which was very nice.
We organized our dive gear and attended a dive briefing followed
by a good video about the dos and do nots of diving in Lembeh
Strait. Murray and Jen showed up at dinnertime.
Looking up to the view cottages of the Lembeh Resort
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Our boat Arlena of the Critters at Lembeh Resort dive center
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Looking down at the dock at the Lembeh Resort
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Our deck at the Lembeh Resort
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Room #1 at the Lembeh Resort
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View from our deck at the Lembeh Resort
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View from our deck at the Lembeh Resort toward the volcanoes and port
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Inside our room at the Lembeh Resort
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Lori lounges inside our room at the Lembeh Resort
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Indoor/outdoor bathroom at the Lembeh Resort
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The outdoor shower at the Lembeh Resort
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The dining room at the Lembeh Resort
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The pool, dive storage, camera room, and dive shop at the Lembeh Resort
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Our dive locker at the Lembeh Resort
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Diving Lembeh Strait (Tuesday, 2019-12-17)
We made three muck dives. Interesting stuff. We dove Nudi
Falls, Hairball, and Aer Bajo I. I didn't want
to get my wet suit wet, so I dove in my bathing suit. I finally
started to get a bit cold after the third dive. Our dive master,
Vadly, wrote down the names of each living thing he
identified on a slate. This was incredibly useful for later
identification!
We found the food at the resort to be excellent, plentiful, and spicy!
The map of the Lembeh Strait dive sites
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Vadly briefs the dive at Nudi Falls
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Barramundi cod
Cromileptes altivelis
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What looks like a very small sea cucumber
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Redline flabellina
Flabellina rubrolineata
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Dwarf cuttlefish
Sepia bandensis
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Robust ghost pipefish
Solenostomus cyanopterus
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Bubble coral
Plerogyra sinuosa
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Bullock's hypselodoris
Hypselodoris bullocki
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Anna's chromodoris
Chromodoris annae
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Blue dragon
Pteraeolidia ianthina
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Thorny seahorse
Hippocampus histrix
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Painted frogfish
Antennarius pictus
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Hanging with a jelly at the safety stop
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Check out the psychedelic eyes on this shortfin lionfish
Dendrochirus brachypterus
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Hairy frogfish
Antennarius striatus
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Hairy frogfish
Antennarius striatus
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Tunicates and the garbage of Lembeh Strait
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Strapweed filefish
Pseudomonacanthus macrurus
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Ornate goby
Lubricogobius exiguus
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Star puffer
Arothron stellatus
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Thorny seahorse
Hippocampus histrix
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Spotted porcelain crab
Neopetrolisthes maculatus
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Common seahorse
Hippocampus taeniopterus
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Twospot dwarf flounder
Engyprosopon grandisquama
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Peacock-tail anemone shrimp
Periclimenes brevicarpalis
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Striped catfish
Plotosus lineatus
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Snowflake moray
Echidna nebulosa
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Shortfin lionfish
Dendrochirus brachypterus
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Emperor shrimp
Periclimenes imperator
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Jellyfish carry crab carrying an upside-down jellyfish
Ethusa sp
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Orangutan crab
Oncinopus sp
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Cockatoo waspfish
Ablabys taenianotus
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White-eyed moray
Gymnothorax thyrsoideus
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Magnificent anemone shrimp
Ancylomenes magnificus
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Upside-down jellyfish
Cassiopea sp
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Flamboyant cuttlefish
Metasepia pfefferi
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Pink-eared mantis
Odontodactylus latirostris
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Murex snail
Murex tribulus
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Shortpouch pygmy pipehorse
Acentronura breviperula
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Crested nembrotha
Nembrotha cristata
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Anemone hermit crab
Dardanus pedunculatus
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Common seahorse
Hippocampus taeniopterus
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Off-gassing (Wednesday, 2019-12-18)
Although a few of us went for a morning dive, it was an
off-gassing day for us. We dried our gear and I took photos of
the resort. And we had more awesome food, packed, and had a nice
sundowner party on our deck at #1 before dinner.
Enjoying a sundowner drink on our deck at the Lembeh Resort
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Manado to Sorong and Blue Manta (Thursday, 2019-12-19)
Up at 4. Caught the flight to Sorong, aided in the
airport by our handler hired by the Lembeh Resort. We were
picked up at the airport by the blue Manta crew, and they took
us in three buses to the marina. We were introduced to the boat
and the crew and drove out to our first checkout dive site
(Red Light District) which had lots of great animals. We
then motored overnight towards Misool.
Egoi's dive briefings were unique. He showed the dive site on
Google Maps. He left the waypoint for each dive site enabled so
we could see our movement across the region.
Rather than draw the dive site on a white board like other
organizations, he created a diorama, incorporating Vaseline,
toasters, cookie boxes, Lego characters, rolls of tape, towels,
and other items from the boat. It was creative, and fun.
Here are the dive sites, as listed by Egoi. His comments, not mine :-).
- Red Light District, Sorong, West Papua UNESCO Heritage ;)
- Whale Rock, Misool Marine Reserve
- Nudi Rock! Misool Marine Reserve
- Yuliet, Misool Marine Reserve
- Romeo, Misool Marine Reserve
- Karang Bayangan AKA Magic Mountain, Misool Marine Reserve
- Boo Window, Misool Marine Reserve
- ANTICHOVIE!!! MADNESS! Misool Marine Reserve
- Hangover Sunset, Wayil, Misool
- 4 Kings! Wayil, Misool
- Wedding Cake, Wayil, Misool
- Gorgonian Passage, Wayil, Misool
- Tank-Nudi Rock, Misool Marine Reserve
- Andiamo, Daram, Misool
- Candy Store, Daram, Misool
- Two Tree Island, Sagof, Misool
- Convergence, Batanta
- Dayang Wings, Batanta
- Melissa´s Garden, Penemu
- Batu Rufus, Penemu
- Manta Ridge!!! Dampier St.
- Mangrove Ridge, Yanggefo Island
- Sawandarek Jetty, Mansuar Island
- Crazy Zoo, Waigeo
- Cape Kri, Kri Island
- Blue Magic, Dampier St.
An overview of all of our dives in Raja Ampat
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Misool Island of Raja Ampat, where we started our diving in Raja Ampat
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Misool to Batanta and Piaynemo
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The northern section of Raja Ampat, which includes our first dive and our last days of diving
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Our spacious room on the Blue Manta
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Lori and Deb enjoy the rainbow
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Krystal enjoys the rainbow too
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The Lego divers are ready to roll into the water at Barracuda Rock
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This photo of Nudi Rock clearly shows how the dive site got its name, and that Vaseline is a necessary ingredient for dive site dioramas
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Heron ardeadoris
Ardeadoris egretta
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Swollen phyllidia
Phyllidia varicosa
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A commensal bubble coral shrimp in bubble coral
Vir philippinensis, Plerogyra sinuosa
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Beautiful red gorgonian sea fans
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Multi-colored soft corals are my favorite thing
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Barrumundi cod hides behind these lovely corals
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Crinoids, sea fans, and soft corals oh my!
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Lampert's sea cucumber
Synaptula lamperti
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An unidentified blenny pokes out of the coral
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Spotted hypselodoris
Hypselodoris maculosa
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A white sea fan, which we'll soon learn, is the home of a white pygmy seahorse
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An orange sea fan, which we'll soon learn, is the home of an orange pygmy seahorse
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Denise's pygmy seahorse
Hippocampus denise
Photo by PJ Widestrand
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Lori checks out the blue and yellow fusiliers
Caesio teres
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Blue and yellow fusiliers
Caesio teres
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Yellowmask surgeonfish
Acanthurus mata
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Unfortunately, at this point the water alarm in my camera housing
went off so I aborted the dive and didn't take any more photos
under water.
The board on the dive deck listing the names of the crew, the groups of divers and their divemaster, and dives for the day showing the departure order
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An island near Yulliet where we snorkeled with baby sharks
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A relaxing spot on the bow
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Bonnie and Paul hang out on the bow
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An aerial shot of me (in the bright yellow shirt in the upper right) picking up garbage
Photo by PJ Widestrand
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Departing for a lagoon tour
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Egoi and Bonnie stare into the clear waters of the lagoon
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Bonnie and Paul watch the drone
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Dinghies and snorkelers
Photo by PJ Widestrand
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Tay and Deb go for their apres-dive shower
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Lori and Egoi are all smiles
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Egoi shows that Two Tree Island is really a toaster
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Looking in the direction of the Two Tree Island dive site
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Another very secluded beach
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An overhead shot of us on a hill on Piaynemo
Photo by PJ Widestrand
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Peter, Krystal, Deb, and Lori on the way to our short climb at Piaynemo
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The crew and passengers of the Blue Manta
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The crew sings on Christmas
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Bonnie and Deb getting a massage between dives, because hanging out on a boat in Indonesia isn't relaxing enough
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Murray and Jen enjoy the tasty ginger tea after a dive
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Lori and Deb back from their last dive of the trip (with divemaster Batman)
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When are you going to put that thing away?
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A typical yummy lunch buffet served by Yusuf and Heriff
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The gang enjoys another scrumptious lunch
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The awesome camera room aboard the Blue Manta (where PJ tirelessly edits his video)
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The upstairs bar and dining area
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The well laid-out dive deck
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The Jakarta airport features murals of divers that incorporate fire extinguishers as their tanks
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Jen, Deb, and Bonnie show off their new outfits
Photo by Bonnie MacKenzie
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Sorong to SFO (Friday, 2019-12-27)
Woke up a little earlier than usual for a light breakfast, said
our goodbyes to the crew, and boarded our Garuda flight
to Jakarta with Bonnie, Paul, Murray, Jen, Krystal,
Keith, and Alice (who we met on the boat). I thought I'd have to
pay extra luggage as Lori and I had a combined 53 kg in three
bags instead of 40 kg. As I had read in the DAN Raja Ampat
article that a 23 kg bag of dive gear was free, I said that two
of the bags were dive gear. We did not pay extra fees.
We said our good-byes to Murray and Jen and Krystal in Jakarta,
and boarded our Eva Air flight to Taipei, where we
then said our good-byes to and Bonnie and Paul. We endured lots
of heavy turbulence on last leg home to San Francisco.
Surprisingly, I actually slept for most of the first 7 hours.
And then watched Ad Astra.